Baba’s Brew

Turkish coffee isn’t a standout menu item for our city’s nationally lauded Palestinian deli Baba’s Pantry. You’re more likely to have heard about the Kamal family’s velvety hummus, perfectly crisp falafel or even the decadent pistachio-ridden pastries served at their bakery next door. But considering Turkish coffee is meant to be enjoyed with good company and conversation, Baba’s (1019 E. 63rd St., KCMO) is the perfect place to snag a cup.

Turkish coffee is different from your average coffee drink. Commonly seen across Middle Eastern cultures, the beverage looks and acts similar to espresso, served in a small cup and very rich. However, Turkish coffee is made with coffee ground finer than espresso and a brewing process that involves boiling three times in a cezve—or ibrik, as Palestinians call it—which is a small copper pot. It’s unfiltered, so the coffee grounds eventually settle to the bottom of the cup. You’re finished with your drink when you begin to taste the grounds.

Although it’s served in a small cup, Turkish coffee is strong. A cup of it at Baba’s is also notably more aromatic than others I’ve had. When I ask Yasmine Kamal, one of Baba’s daughters, for the reason behind their flavorful brew, she says it’s due to the cardamom they grind into the coffee. 

Turkish coffee is a social activity, really. Nothing is measured with a scale or brought to a specific temperature. Those who brew it regularly brew with the heart. At Baba’s Pantry, they scoop two heaping spoonfuls of coffee grinds and begin boiling. 

I recommend pairing a cup with a slice of baklava and some great company for the breakfast of champions. babaspantrykc.com.  

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